Friday, April 18, 2014

MAKING "BUTTONS" FOR 1 INCH SCALE DOLLHOUSE FURNITURE - How to make faux buttons from card stock for 1 inch scale dollhouse furniture.







I was asked by Roberta how I make the "buttons" that I put into the back cushions on my furniture.  I thought that was a good topic for a tutorial for this month.






This is not an upholstery tutorial.  I have that listed on the left side of the blog, Make and upholster a 1 inch scale chair.

I have a back cushion cut out and I have the button placement marked on the pattern.










Place your pattern on the cushion back and punch through the foam core with a pencil to mark placement.











There are the holes made by the pencil.












I am using my Dremel to drill holes through the foam core.  That's probably a 1/16" bit.










Use tacky glue and apply it on the back cushion.  Can you see that I have left the area around the holes without glue?












This is my first layer of Thermolam Plus.  I buy this at JoAnn's or Walmart, do not buy the fusible.








With your sewing scissors cut out around the holes.

I say sewing scissors because we don't use those to cut paper with, do we? We only use our sewing scissors for fabric so they stay sharp.








This is the second piece of Thermolam Plus.












The second piece is glued on and the holes are cut out.














This the last piece of Thermolam Plus.












I have this piece glued on, I will not cut the holes out on the last piece.












I've cut a large enough piece of fabric out for my back cushion.











Turn the fabric to the wrong side and place your pattern on the fabric and mark the holes.












My holes have been marked.












I have a tip for you, on a flat back cushion like this you can enlarge your pattern on the computer by a very small amount, maybe 5%.  This spreads the holes out and gives more fabric to be tucked into the dimples you are going to be making for the buttons to set into.  If you use more padding on the back cushion you would want more fabric to go into the dimples.  It's a little trial and error on just how much to enlarge.
On a curved back cushion, like in the first picture at the top you do not have to do this.  Mark the pattern on the fabric as is, the curve takes care of giving you extra fabric.









I use button hole or carpet thread to pull the dimples with.  You could probably use sewing thread just as well.











I double my thread and make a knot at the end.







Start the needle from the back of the back cushion.  Use the marks on the fabric to line up your needle.

Yes, the knot will go through the hole, it will catch on the Thermolam Plus.

Take a small stitch on the front and come back out at the back.







Go to the next hole in the back, insert on the mark on the fabric, take a small stitch and come back out  and on to the next hole.










Don't pull too hard, the dimple doesn't have to be deep.












I've sewn all of the dimples and I've gone back into the first hole and took another stitch.

Knot off and cut your thread.












Here is the front of the cushion with all of the dimples sewn in.












If I were making a chair I would be ready to glue the cushion into it now.









To make the buttons I use a leather punch.  I bought this at a hardware store, I know that Michaels also carries these.

I use white glue, too.  I want the card stock to stay wet for awhile and the white glue does not dry too fast.









I also use a double ball stylus.  I bought this one at Michaels.













I use craft foam to shape the buttons. This is also available from Michaels.













Apply white glue to a piece of card stock and press your fabric onto it.











I am using a contrasting fabric so you can see the buttons when I'm finished.











The leather punch is not designed to cut through fabric, it's not sharp enough and it's cutter presses against a flat metal surface.  The fabric isn't thick like a piece of leather.  A paper punch doesn't work.  The card stock and fabric are wet and  hard to cut out.

So what do you do . . . .





I place another piece of card stock on top of the fabric.  This gives a tiny bit of depth for the cutter to cut through and it works.  I have put the extra card stock under the card stock that is glued to the fabric but that is hard to separate after the circle is punched out.  If you don't separate the two pieces of card stock you run the risk of the button falling off because you didn't glue the button on, you glued the extra card stock on.

This does work, it just takes some practice.







Here are my circles setting on two pieces of craft foam.











I am using the small end of the double ball stylus to shape the circles into buttons.











The size of circle you cut is up to you.  For this tutorial I used the 1/8" cutter.







My buttons are shaped.  Leave them in the craft foam to dry.  It's important to let them dry.  You will be pressing them into glue and if they are not hard and dry they will loose their shape and you will have to start over.










There is one button.













Apply a dab of tacky glue into the dimple.











I have all of my buttons glued into the dimples of the back cushion.













O.K. so they aren't real buttons but I think they look great on a piece of miniature furniture.

I hope you are all getting outside, I really think winter might be over!!


If you have any questions please e-mail me at camceiling@frontiernet.net.

If you have pictures for the Follower's Gallery send them to camceiling@frontiernet.net.



Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . .

Just Keep Making Minis!!


Kris

P.S.  I'm sorry I forgot to put the reminder about sending in your photos of finished tutorials, please send me photos, the address is camceiling@frontiernet.net.

If you have any questions please e-mail me at the same address and I will do my best to answer them.

Instagram

Happy Friday!  No furniture today but I do have something to share.  I opened an Instagram account. Well, I opened an account years ago but never used it.

Truthfully, this is not something I wanted to deal with.  I have plenty to do and the thought of one more social media to keep up with gives me a headache.  But here is my problem.....

I have 750+ Facebook followers.  Facebook is my main source of sharing and social media.  Anytime I post pictures, share other's pictures, or share links and blog posts, only a small fraction of my followers will see the post.  EXAMPLE:  Yesterday's post, Polishing Brass Tutorial, was published at 11:00 AM CST and only 65 out of 750+ Facebook followers saw it.  65!  Some of that is because of the time, who is on Facebook looking at their news feeds, who has chosen to get all notifications, etc. but a lot of it is Facebook hiding posts from followers.



The other problem, I can't see pictures from people I am following.  Their pictures are being hidden from me too.  I went to several of my favorite blogs the other day and checked out their Instagram pages.  They put so many more pictures on Instagram than on Facebook and add more info.  Those things will NEVER be hidden from me like it is on Facebook.  This is really what made the decision for me.

I only have one photo posted and I am sure there are going to be some growing pains but I will get there.  If you have an Instagram account and would like to follow me here is a link to my profile:

http://instagram.com/fishermanswifefurniture

I already added the badge to the blog.



I hope everyone has a great Easter weekend.  My plan is to finish sewing curtains, finish staining the fence, and Blittle and I have to decide if we are going to build the new dock or re-do the railing and stairs first.  If you missed it on Facebook, we finally got our pilings!  After a month of waiting they are in.






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Thursday, April 17, 2014

Polishing Brass Tutorial

In yesterday's post, Brass is Back, I showed y'all a few accessories I have inherited recently.  Both are brass pieces and were tarnished.  I cleaned and polished them to the shiny, brass they were meant to be.









Only real brass will polish to a bright, shiny finish.  One way to check for real brass is to use a magnet.  Brass is non-magnetic so it will not attract a magnet.

Many people use natural, homemade polishers but the few I have tried did not work.  I wish I had a way that didn't use such harsh products, but I haven't yet.


This is what I use to polish brass.




Supplies.

Chemical gloves
Gel or liquid stripper
Brasso or other metal polish
Tough paper towels
Toothbrush or other soft brush
Small wire brush
Safety glasses



Citristrip is my favorite stripper but it doesn't seem to work as well on metal pieces.  I tried to use it first and it didn't get the old, dirty clear coat off so I used a stripper that is stronger.

Be sure you are in a well ventilated room or outside for this project.  Both the stripper and Brasso have a strong chemical odor.


Strip the piece.  While wearing chemical gloves and glasses, pour and brush stripper all over the piece then let it sit.  Read the directions for your stripper for recommended time.  My stripper only needed 15 minutes.  Use the toothbrush or wire brush to scrub off the old clear coat and dirt.  Wash off all the stripper and dry with a paper towel.  Also, rinse off your toothbrush and wire brush.

You might already notice a difference in color!






Shake your Brasso before use.  Pour some directly onto the piece or onto the toothbrush.  Scrub the piece with the toothbrush being sure you get every crease and hard to reach spots.  You will notice that the Brasso will start to turn green or look dirty.  Add more Brasso as needed.

You will notice a color change almost immediately when you start scrubbing.






Once the entire piece is scrubbed, rinse with water and dry off.  





Next, I use a small amount of Brasso on a paper towel and rub everything to get a pretty polish and get any last dirt the toothbrush missed.





Rinse the piece and wipe clean and dry with a paper towel.






Over time the brass will tarnish again.  I leave mine natural and will polish again as needed but you can seal it with a clear coat.









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